One in a Million

9:00 am. Summer. A surf family slowly rolls out of bed, throws on swimsuits, barely stopping for breakfast. The tide is low and the waves are breaking. 9:00 is early in the summer. So, of course, everyone is exhausted. Ten minutes later, they are at the beach. The sand is cool and uncrowded this early in the day. The surf family pauses not, but walks right down to the ocean. The waves are smooth, glassy, and many. The water is clearer than air. The three surfers on three boards paddle out, past the breakers, past the huge pounding surf breaking right on top of them. When they reach the sandbar, their arms are jelly. They don’t pause. We ride wave after wave, small ripples to the largest waves ever. Once or twice all three of us are standing on the same wave. We must have surfed a hundred, total. Maybe even each. This day is one in a milliion: one day of beautiful waves in a sequence of a million just like them. One day and a million waves. Is it worth it, then, dragging ourselves out of bed, paddling miles (maybe) out to the distant sandbar, repeating this process after every wave? Your answer is two words: The Moment. The Moment every surfer experiences, dropping into a wave, the moment of total euphoria, total adrenaline and excitement. The Moment is when you know that you’ve conquered a wave just on the edge of your ability. As you ride down the surface of the wave, seconds seem like minutes, and The Moment continues, until the wave slows down and you plunge into the water. The bigger the wave, the better. And every wave you surf, you get The Moment all over again. For a dedicated surfer, it is all worth it: the long journey out, every dollar spent on surboard wax, every missed wave: it is all for The Moment. Every time, you experience it all over again as if for the first time. The Moment never gets old, never gets tiring. I don’t know about every other surfer, but for me, surfing is not about competition, but the thrill every time I catch a wave. The exhilaration of riding a wave of pure energy, total power. Surfing, and any great surfer will agree, is not just a sport, not just a lifestyle, but a dream, a waking dream. And not a nightmare, either. Except for the terrible crashes every surfer is destined to make once in a while. But I’ve been lucky, so far. I keep surfing, keep riding my dream across the surface of the water. But don’t take my word for it: you have to find out for yourself. Grab a board, dive into the surf, and search for The Moment. © 2010 SurferJo

The new puppy

We named him Harry, and from what we read he’s a harp seal. Rumor is he’s been lounging up and down the coast for the last few weeks, anyway, he hung out with us on our stretch of sand for about two days. Did absolutely nothing but lay there and sleep. All he needed was a TV and a plate of nachos and he’d have reminded us of someone we know. Have a good summer, Harry!  

Two Great Champions

Team Blanchetti We got the greatest email from some of our Blue Gravity beach friends! They competed in, AND WON!, the Little-Big Adventure Triathlon. Amazing stuff! It went like this:
Hi,
Hope you and the other exec’s at Blue Gravity don’t mind Lauren and I racing under Blue Gravity banner.
Huge crowd of National Media: Hey, nice race guys.
TeamChetti3: Thanks.
Hundreds of reporters: Did the rain and mud affect your race strategy?
TeamChetti3: We just want to thank all the good folks at Blue Gravity Surf Company in the Outer Banks of North Carolina, a company started by beach kids for beach kids.
Attendees of giant live TV press conference: How was TeamChetti3 different from TeamChetti1 or TeamChetti2?
TeamChetti3: At Blue Gravity’s website www.bluegravitysurf.com, you can order cool shirts like these….(available in blue or white), you can play online games, blog and chat with other surf kids.
Sports journalists from all over the world: Overall, how does this race rank in terms of other races you’ve done?
TeamChetti3: We’d like to throw a shout out to our sponsor Blue Gravity Surf Company found online at www.bluegravitysurfcompany.com.
— If only all great athletes were this nice to their sponsors! Maybe TO and Bode could learn from these athletes. For more information on this unbelievably cool event, go to http://runningkids.net!

T-shirts are here!

T-shirts-- They're Going Fast!Hooray! T-shirts are here! For those of you who havn’t heard, Never Forget Your First Wave t-shirts are Blue Gravity’s first product. They feature the logo and tagline and are really cool looking!   I’m Excited about the shirts, and I hope you are too: happy enough to want one for yourself. But I’d get one quickly, because I know that they’re going fast. You don’t want to order one and find out the stock is out! Yay Blue Gravity! Cool

Today was awesome!

🙂 The sandbar was great, and the waves were perfect. It was the ultimate beach day! I got some great photos of the waves, people, and other things. In the picture at left, my sister is looking down the beach and taking a photo at the same time as I am.

You would not believe how flat the waves were! Since they were breaking far out, they fizzled out before they reached tht shore. Because they were smaller, I was able to catch them just at the right time before they broke and surf all the way to the shore. (A big feat seeing as this is the same sandbar the fins of my board kept sticking on yesterday!)

Well, I suppose that my wish is coming true, that we have more days like this during this summer. That’s all I have to say for today, but I’ll be back with more beach news.

Bye dudes!

© Copyright 2008 by SurferJo